I have been wanted to return to Iraq for years, ever since I began some very interrupted training of doctors there in basic family medicine. The chance came with an invitation from a former colleague in Jordan who is now working with a USAID supported project in primary health care in Iraq. The deal was sweetened by the additional knowledge that I would also be working with one of the doctors who had been in the first group of physician trainees in Baghdad in 2003; now working to reach his fellow physicians.
I arrived in Baghdad 2 days ago, after a series of flights from Rwanda which included an unexpected business class seat on Emirates Airlines from Dubai to Baghdad (where even the coach seats are considered by many to be first class)! I was met by several security guards, who fitted me with an old style flak jacket and took me to the USAID project compound in an armoured Toyota, complete with chase car and armed guards. The section of road from the airport into town used to be called “Death Alley” because of the trees lining the road for several miles behind which insurgents would hide to attack passing vehicles – these trees are now gone and replaced by an 8 ft. high concrete barrier fence for most of the length of the highway.
The USAID compound is outside of the green zone, and home to 6 US projects, of which ours is the only health project. It is heavily fortified with concrete barriers on both side of the 4 streets that are enclosed, which gives it a very austere look very different from the homes and guest houses protected by the barriers. There are machine gun toting security personnel everywhere, and the compound dining room must be the only restaurant in the area with a special rack for storing the guns while the personnel eat! Although the guards obviously mean tough business, they are invariably polite and gentle with old folks like me!
I was assigned a hotel-style room in a guest house with a shared bathroom, right next to the bank of generators that run when the city power is out, which in these two days has been about 60% of the time. It is easy to get used to, especially when the alternative is run-down computer batteries and dark nights. I have an identifying badge that must be worn at all times, attended a security briefing on emergency evacuation plans today, and must sign in a logbook before I retire for the evening. Last night, I forgot, and received a phone call at 9 PM very respectfully reminding me that I had not yet signed!
Everyone in the projects both lives and works at the compound – yesterday we hosted several local consultant physicians and officials from the Iraqi Ministry of Health who had to be cleared at the compound and meet in a project conference room. Fortunately, it seemed like no big deal to them, and we had a great workshop on the teaching of management of high blood pressure to local general practitioners. They were knowledgeable, funny, flexible, and engaged – an ideal environment for consensus. I only wish that I could meet with them on their turf and in their environment, but that will not be the case.
So, I am very protected, especially with the peace that can only come from a good and Heavenly Father. The might of multiple firearms reminds us all of the uncertainties of life in this country, and I find myself often wondering how bad it really is on the outside, where millions of Iraqis live and work with nothing more than the lock on their front door. Right now, my world consists of approximately 4 city blocks, with one restaurant/dining room, a workout room, a bar, a sleeping room, and an office room. I must confess that I am glad that I can get back to the green hills of Rwanda, and to Mimi, in about 2 weeks!
Well, after much deliberation, Mimi found a traveling companion and decided to visit the famous Rwandan gorillas this week. We spent the night near the national park, and while Cal met with doctors at the local hospital, Mimi and her friend Robin trekked into the Virunga National Park with a tracker and two burly Rwandan porters to help steady them on the trail. After about an hour of hiking on muddy, slippery trails entirely uphill (climbing one of the several volcanoes in the area), they met up with a family group of gorillas. One of the young males had been heard thumping his chest for at least 15 minutes before the group arrived, and he was still going. They found that he was busy eating in a thicket of bamboo, which the guide explained has a modest alcohol content if eaten in large quantities! One tracker bravely entered the thicket to try to flush him out, and the sounds of a scuffle began - the gorilla did not take kindly to having his brew and breakfast disturbed! When he did emerge, he went straight for the small group of interested tourists, running right up to Mimi and pushing her aside with a rough, hairy paw. He brushed her face in the process, leaving a small abrasion, and Mimi would have fallen had it not been for the steadying hand of the kindly Rwandan porter, who had never left her side. Mimi was assured that the skin of her cheek "was not broken". The belligerent gorilla was definitely a bit unsteady as he wobbled off. 
